According to common sense, fashion and feminism do not get along. Often in history, male fashion designers have exploited the female body for their artistic whims, and just as often, women have refused to comply with the dictates of fashion as the embodiment of an aestheticizing and fetishistic male gaze. However, on many occasions, feminists have reappropriated and resemantized the domestic practices of knitting, sewing and embroidery, conceptualizing them as different ways to think about politics, community, the self, and relationality. Among the many philosophers and activists of Italian second wave feminism, the most influential is undoubtedly Carla Lonzi. Over the years, Carla Lonzi has almost been turned into an idol, exploring every nuance of her thought both in feminism and art criticism. However, her image has remained unexplored, probably considered not particu- larly relevant. Through her work, this article analyzes the complex dynamics between fashion and feminism, and reconstructs Carla Lonzi’s wardrobe starting from the photographs in her books and in archives, interpreting it with the help of her diary Taci, anzi parla, and of her collection of poems Scacco ragionato.

L'armadio di Carla Lonzi / Campagna, Leonardo. - In: ZONEMODA JOURNAL. - ISSN 2611-0563. - 1:13(2023), pp. 33-50. [10.6092/issn.2611-0563/17118]

L'armadio di Carla Lonzi

Leonardo Campagna
2023

Abstract

According to common sense, fashion and feminism do not get along. Often in history, male fashion designers have exploited the female body for their artistic whims, and just as often, women have refused to comply with the dictates of fashion as the embodiment of an aestheticizing and fetishistic male gaze. However, on many occasions, feminists have reappropriated and resemantized the domestic practices of knitting, sewing and embroidery, conceptualizing them as different ways to think about politics, community, the self, and relationality. Among the many philosophers and activists of Italian second wave feminism, the most influential is undoubtedly Carla Lonzi. Over the years, Carla Lonzi has almost been turned into an idol, exploring every nuance of her thought both in feminism and art criticism. However, her image has remained unexplored, probably considered not particu- larly relevant. Through her work, this article analyzes the complex dynamics between fashion and feminism, and reconstructs Carla Lonzi’s wardrobe starting from the photographs in her books and in archives, interpreting it with the help of her diary Taci, anzi parla, and of her collection of poems Scacco ragionato.
2023
clothing; feminism; body; sexual difference; relationality
01 Pubblicazione su rivista::01a Articolo in rivista
L'armadio di Carla Lonzi / Campagna, Leonardo. - In: ZONEMODA JOURNAL. - ISSN 2611-0563. - 1:13(2023), pp. 33-50. [10.6092/issn.2611-0563/17118]
File allegati a questo prodotto
File Dimensione Formato  
Campagna_Lonzi_2023.pdf

accesso aperto

Note: Pdf dell'articolo
Tipologia: Versione editoriale (versione pubblicata con il layout dell'editore)
Licenza: Creative commons
Dimensione 8.71 MB
Formato Adobe PDF
8.71 MB Adobe PDF

I documenti in IRIS sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.

Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/11573/1685568
Citazioni
  • ???jsp.display-item.citation.pmc??? ND
  • Scopus ND
  • ???jsp.display-item.citation.isi??? ND
social impact