Observed crest speeds of maximally steep, breaking water waves are much slower than expected. Our fully nonlinear computations of unsteadily propagating deep water wave groups show that each wave crest approaching its maximum height slows down significantly and either breaks at this reduced speed, or accelerates forward unbroken. This previously noted crest slowdown behavior was validated as generic in our extensive laboratory and field observations. It is likely to occur in unsteady dispersive nonlinear wave groups in other natural systems.

Linking reduced breaking crest speeds to unsteady nonlinear water wave group behavior / Banner, M. L; Barthelemy, X; Fedele, Francesco; Allis, M; Benetazzo, Alvise; Dias, F; Peirson, W. L.. - In: PHYSICAL REVIEW LETTERS. - ISSN 1079-7114. - STAMPA. - 112:11(2014), p. 114502. [10.1103/PhysRevLett.112.114502]

Linking reduced breaking crest speeds to unsteady nonlinear water wave group behavior

FEDELE, Francesco;BENETAZZO, alvise;
2014

Abstract

Observed crest speeds of maximally steep, breaking water waves are much slower than expected. Our fully nonlinear computations of unsteadily propagating deep water wave groups show that each wave crest approaching its maximum height slows down significantly and either breaks at this reduced speed, or accelerates forward unbroken. This previously noted crest slowdown behavior was validated as generic in our extensive laboratory and field observations. It is likely to occur in unsteady dispersive nonlinear wave groups in other natural systems.
2014
Computer Simulation; Oceans and Seas; Water; Nonlinear Dynamics; Water Movements
01 Pubblicazione su rivista::01a Articolo in rivista
Linking reduced breaking crest speeds to unsteady nonlinear water wave group behavior / Banner, M. L; Barthelemy, X; Fedele, Francesco; Allis, M; Benetazzo, Alvise; Dias, F; Peirson, W. L.. - In: PHYSICAL REVIEW LETTERS. - ISSN 1079-7114. - STAMPA. - 112:11(2014), p. 114502. [10.1103/PhysRevLett.112.114502]
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/11573/808656
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