Bhūṣaṇa maneka warna. How to Embody Refinement and Civilization in the Performing Arts of Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat

In this paper we discuss how, within the context of Yogyanese kraton, the importance of the “attire” (busana) can’t be isolated from other verbal and non-verbal attributes of royalty and how it encloses deep implications and significance within the court social environment. We analyse the diverse meanings of busana when related to different concepts: embodiment of royal facets (such as halus or “refinement”), importance of social status (or role as an indicator of identity within a community) and “control” as fundamental parameter of “civilization”. Further, we discuss how “attire” contributes in a determinant way to the expression of values and identity through court performing arts, presenting two case studies: wayang kulit and sindhen.