The circular economy and bioeconomy in the fashion sector: Emergence of a “sustainability bias”

While many people consider clothes shopping an enjoyable leisure activity, the constant supply of new fashion styles at very low prices has led to a significant increase in the volume of clothes produced and disposed (i.e., “fast fashion”). The present study aimed at assessing consumer attitudes towards the fashion sector, particularly with respect to the bioeconomy and the circular economy. To this end, an online survey was administered to a sample of 402 Italian consumers. The most meaningful result was an incorrect evaluation of sustainability resulting in a different consumers' attitude toward bio and circular economy. Indeed, respondents were willing to buy bio-based clothes as well as other bio-based products. However, in the second-hand market – representing a pillar of the circular economy – respondents were reluctant to purchase used clothes, even though they expressed no concern about buying other used items. This discrepancy in consumer attitudes was confirmed by an analysis of respondents' willingness to pay for a white t-shirt and by computing the circular premium: respondents were willing to pay a lower price for a second-hand t-shirt, resulting in a negative premium (−57%). Instead, it was positive for bio-based clothes (+23%). A possible explanation for this is that respondents’ environmental concerns were overshadowed by their perception of second-hand clothing as poor quality. Sustainable fashion requires increased consumer awareness of the real meaning of sustainability and, moreover, businesses that combine ethical with circular bioeconomy practices.