Boundary Condition in the Oscillating Turbulent Boundary Layer for the Simulation of Wave Breaking

In this paper a new numerical model for the simulation of the wave breaking is proposed. In order to represent the complex geometry of coastal regions, the three-dimensional equations of motion are expressed in integral contravariant form and are solved on a curvilinear boundary conforming grid. A time-dependent transformation of the vertical coordinate that is a function of the oscillation of the turbulent wave boundary layer is proposed. New boundary condition bottom for the equations of motion expressed in contravariant form are proposed. In order to correctly simulate the height of the breaking waves, the importance of the correct positioning, inside the oscillating turbulent boundary layer, of the centre of the calculation grid cell closest to the bottom, is demonstrated.