Irregular coastlines and variable bathymetry produce nonlinear effects on wave propagation which play a significant role on the formation of nearshore currents. To protect the coastline from the erosional action of nearshore currents, it is usual to adopt coastal defence works such as submerged breakwaters. If properly designed, they give rise to circulation patterns capable to induce sedimentation of suspended material at the nearshore region. To numerically simulate the hydrodynamic effects of submerged breakwaters in irregular coastal areas, we use a numerical model which is based on an integral contravariant formulation of the three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations in a time-dependent coordinate system. These equations are numerically solved by a non-hydrostatic shock-capturing numerical scheme which is able to simulate the wave propagation from deep water to the shoreline, including the surf zone and swash zone.

Nonlinear waves and nearshore currents over variable bathymetry in curve-shaped coastal areas / Gallerano, Francesco; Cannata, Giovanni; Palleschi, Federica. - In: JOURNAL OF OCEAN ENGINEERING AND MARINE ENERGY. - ISSN 2198-6444. - 5:4(2019), pp. 419-431. [10.1007/s40722-019-00153-8]

Nonlinear waves and nearshore currents over variable bathymetry in curve-shaped coastal areas

Gallerano, Francesco
Conceptualization
;
Cannata, Giovanni
Conceptualization
;
Palleschi, Federica
Conceptualization
2019

Abstract

Irregular coastlines and variable bathymetry produce nonlinear effects on wave propagation which play a significant role on the formation of nearshore currents. To protect the coastline from the erosional action of nearshore currents, it is usual to adopt coastal defence works such as submerged breakwaters. If properly designed, they give rise to circulation patterns capable to induce sedimentation of suspended material at the nearshore region. To numerically simulate the hydrodynamic effects of submerged breakwaters in irregular coastal areas, we use a numerical model which is based on an integral contravariant formulation of the three-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations in a time-dependent coordinate system. These equations are numerically solved by a non-hydrostatic shock-capturing numerical scheme which is able to simulate the wave propagation from deep water to the shoreline, including the surf zone and swash zone.
coastal currents; contravariant formulation; nonlinear waves; submerged breakwaters; three-dimensional model; Ttme-dependent curvilinear coordinate system
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Nonlinear waves and nearshore currents over variable bathymetry in curve-shaped coastal areas / Gallerano, Francesco; Cannata, Giovanni; Palleschi, Federica. - In: JOURNAL OF OCEAN ENGINEERING AND MARINE ENERGY. - ISSN 2198-6444. - 5:4(2019), pp. 419-431. [10.1007/s40722-019-00153-8]
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/11573/1388835
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